Sewing Circle: Modifying patterns for backless dresses

Sewing Circle: Modifying patterns for backless dresses

• 8.21.2012

This week's two-part Sewing Circle question is from Jennie! She wanted to know about making both of these partially backless dresses--and what patterns to use and modify...

Q: I'd love to make this adorable ASOS dress. Unfortunately, they're sold out in my size :/

 

Also, how would one modify the back to the urban outfitters inspired, mint-ish lace, backless dress that your friend made (the friend that you blogged about). Again, love your blog and thank you so much for all of the help.

A: Wow, you're adventurous! I don't have any backless dresses myself, but I have some ideas for you.

For the ASOS dress, I would use Simplicity 1913 for the front of the bodice--it has the right princess seams...

...and for the back I would use Simplicity 2444, Simplicity 1873, or, for a slightly looser shape, Simplicity 2215.

Of course you’ll modify the back—cut away from about 1.5” from the center back at the waist and taper it up to almost meet at the center back at the neck, where you’ll put the button loop and button. Looks like the back’s not lined, though the front probably is, so if you use a substantial enough fabric, then just turn the back edges under twice about ¼” and hem. Or, if you give it a full lining (I would), sew right sides together on the center back pieces and assemble as usual, same as if there were a zipper there. Then you’ll just need a short skirt zipper for the skirt at the center back. Super easy and cute! (The skirt you don’t need a pattern for—looks like it’s a full circle skirt. Tons of tutorials online if you need one!)

I offered similar tips to my friend before she cut down the back of her mint dress. It’s really as easy as it sounds—when cutting out the dress (cut the lining out first), cut down the shape you want, accounting for the seam allowance. On the V-back, it’s even easier; you’re basically just making the back of the neckline super low, to the point where there’s no zipper on the bodice part, of course. So cut down from the shoulder seam using a straight edge, to the waist, and sew right sides together with the lining, so you’ll use your normal seam allowance. As long as you’re cutting out a size that you know fits, it should work out just great!

Readers, have you ever made a backless dress?? I never have! They look like fun, though, if you're not worried about not wearing a bra! ;)  Would love to hear your tips for Jennie or your experiences with backless dress-making.