Sewing Circle: A simple double-breasted jacket
Q: Hi Suzannah, I have a sewing circle question:
I just fell in love with this jacket:
But I can't find a pattern that comes close - it looks so easy! Just three panels with darts in the front. But everything I find looks so complicated, there has to be a better option out there. Help me! Also, any tips for matching stripes?
Jenny
A: Hi Jenny, Thanks for reading, and thanks for your question!
Great question—that does look like a super simple pattern, why can’t we find something similar?!
You can make any pattern into a double-breasted one by adding width on one side, and adding curve to the neckline overlap piece to match the ModCloth one. AND make sure you re-center the buttons when you add a second row! The old center line of the coat, where the buttons were, is your new true center, so offset the two rows an equal distance from that.
I did find these similar patterns…
This New Look one. A little more shaped, and has princess seams you'd have to match stripes on...
Butterick B5712. Pretty simple, nice open neckline. Just add the extension for a double-breasted version! And give it longer sleeves.
I know, it looks SO 90's, but look at the construction--pretty similar! Butterick B5400. Can you believe they still sell this pattern? At least redraw the models, Butterick, jeez... The tapestry floral coat (ugh) at top left is closest--just add the double breast, and maybe don't round off the corners.
BurdaStyle (by Simplicity?) 7262. Also dated, but has similar structure. A few more seams to match stripes with...
Simplicity 6616, which has lots of combinations of the options on the package. Already has a double-breasted pattern included.
Does it look like any of those would work? None are the one-piece side dart bodice front, but… some are pretty simple.
And, of course, use a good sturdy fabric (I'd suggest a home dec twill or soft canvas) and don't forget to match the stripes! Have fun, this sounds like a super fun project...
Readers, what would you say? Have you seen the perfect pattern? Would you modify something like one of the ones above?
I immediately thought about simplicity 6006 (View C) as it is double-breasted. It's a coat, but making it shorter shouldn't be a big issue. The only contra is that it has princess seams.
ReplyDeleteGreat ideas--but you need to be careful working with a single-breasted pattern and trying to make it a double-breasted. In a true double-breasted jacket or coat, the buttons fall on either side of center front. So with a single-breasted pattern, you'd first have to shift the original button placement to the right and extend both sides of center front, thus creating a double-breasted overlap. It's better to start with a double-breasted pattern and modify it.
ReplyDeleteThat's right, @Steph, good call! It is possible to use a single-breasted pattern if you can't find double, but make sure to "find your center"!
ReplyDeleteThese are some really great suggestions. A double-breasted jacket has been on my sewing to-do list for the longest time now. It's such a great classic item to have in your closet. Personally, I love the shapes and silhouettes that came from that Simplicity Project Runway pattern above. They are a little more modern and unique.
ReplyDeleteCallie @ coffeeandcardigans.com
How about this one for the one on the bottom left? http://www.simplicity.com/p-5380-misses-miss-petite-coats.aspx
ReplyDeleteMatching stripes on princess seams shouldn't be too hard if you use this method: http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-match-plaids-and-stripes Right?
ReplyDeleteWhat about a chef's jacket pattern? The constuction is very similar and you could use McCalls 2233 and leave off the mandarin collar.
ReplyDeleteGreat tutorial, @Elizabeth! Thanks for the ideas, readers!
ReplyDeleteI love this jacket too. Jcrew has a version that's awesome. Any ideas on where to get wide striped fabric in tan or blue?
ReplyDeleteAwesome, checking it out now! I just got some wide stripe lightweight canvas-ey stuff from http://www.premierprintsfabric.com/, so. Good luck!
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